Odin Makes – Leviathan Axe from God of War 4

Odin Makes – Leviathan Axe from God of War 4

(popping) Hello, I’m Odin, and
today I am going to make another requested prop. It’s the Leviathan Ax from God of War. First thing I did was print
out a full sized picture of the ax for a guide. I used the picture from the Wiki page and made my oversize printout at Kinko’s. A black and white print there is only 75 cents a square foot. I put a link for this
image in the description if you want to print out your own. Now, because I actually
wanna make the runes and the lines and the
head of the ax light up like it does in the game, I actually need to make
the core of the ax head from something translucent. This is just packing material
from I don’t remember what. It’s been too long. Probably came from work. What I wanna do is cut
out the ax head shape and then line it with an LED strip. I trace the ax head onto the foam, I need to do each blade separately, there’s not enough material. I use a sharpener on the
razor knife before I cut, because this is the only
piece of this foam I have, and I want all cuts to be good. No tears or ripping. I actually do this a
lot when cutting foam, because EVA dulls a razor knife quickly. With both parts are cut out, and I draw where I want the
sharpened blade to start, and where the midpoint of the foam is. Then carefully cut the angle of the blade. I ordered three different light sources I could use for the ax head, because I was not sure what would be best. I tried some electro-luminescent wire, but it that was not that bright, and made a really high pitched noise. Next I had a battery-operated LED strip, but the blue LEDs were
spaced out too much. Also, it wasn’t all that bright. The last thing I had was a 16-foot roll of 12-volt blue LEDs, which were made to be
plugged into the wall. These were certainly bright enough, but I needed to modify
them to be battery powered. I cut the plug off the cord
because it fit the lights, and I put a couple of electric terminals into a 12-volt drill
battery, and the LEDs worked. I removed the black plastic
part of the battery to reduce its size, and insulate the exposed wires with some shrink tube, and then crimp the terminals to the wire. I may have to cut these
shorter but that’s okay. I don’t think I can get
enough glow just lining the outside of the foam,
so I cut the foam open, but not totally in half. Figuring out how I was going to place the LED strip was interesting. So, it comes down, folds in half, it comes back, that’s easier. I need to come down, fold in half. Come down. Come up, fold in half. I peeled off the clear weather strip, and I thought that if I just
stuck the LED strip to itself, I could make the pattern that I needed. And this working at first, but
it quickly became too weird to control, and putting
it back inside the ax head was going to be really difficult. Do you ever get an idea and
you get going on something and think it’s gonna be working out fine but then you kinda realize how the heck am I going
to actually attach this? Maybe not, hopefully not. But I’ve got a spaghetti
mess going on here of LEDs and I wanna put
them inside of an ax head in an orientation that
lines up with tiny lines I wanna cut later and I don’t really wanna miss. So, I think what I should do is take this back apart and then try it a little bit. It looked like it was gonna unpeal again. There we go. I think I can, all right. I’m gonna cut (whoosing) a small bit of plastic that’ll actually fit
inside of the ax head. Then I can attach the
lights to the plastic, following the path that I trace off of the paper pattern and I bet that’s gonna
be a whole lot easier when it comes time to
glue this thing together. I traced the rune
pattern onto the plastic, and then just cut it out. The plastic is from an old poster frame, so when it cuts it has jagged edges, but it will be sealed up inside so I wasn’t worried. I also cut a square in the middle because I will need to pass the LED strip through the plastic later. The first few feet of the LED strip were all wrinkled and wonky because the first try of
sticking the LED strip to itself, what a wad, but once I got past that and into stuff that I hadn’t used yet, it was a lot easier to apply. And there were still lots
of odd turns and wraps around the plastic. But this was a much easier way to get the light source ready. I did the same thing to make the smaller ax blade too. With this LED strip, you can cut it at marked points to make it shorter, and then
just solder on a new plug. I only needed to use about
nine feet of the 16-foot roll. Which is good, because
the LED strip also comes on a nine-foot roll which is cheaper. Then I can glue it together
with contact cement, sealing the edges. And the contact cement does not melt the polyethylene foam,
which is really good. The lights still work, time
to wrap this in craft foam. I’m using two-millimeter black craft foam to skin the polyethylene. I glue the edges on first,
using a bigger piece than I need, so I can trim
it down to a perfect fit. Then I can glue on each
of faces of the blade, also trimming them to fit. I was careful that the ax
head was the right size here, since the two inner halves
are separate pieces. When you use contact cement,
first you paint both halves of what you wanna glue, and then let the contact
cement almost dry. Now you can carefully stick them together. But be sure to apply
the craft foam correctly the first time, because the glue is stronger
than this thin foam, and it will tear if you try to remove it. Oh no, everything ruined, gone. Ah nuts. Starting over. (beeping) I cut an even bigger piece
and this time it worked. To clean up all the trimmed parts, I used my Dremel and a
grinding stone to smooth out all the edges, and sharpened the corners where I had wrapped the craft foam. A little sanding smoothed out
the Dremel marks on the blade. It still lights up, good. All right, I’ve got an ax head. Now I need to make a handle For the handle core, I use
some 1/2-inch PVC pipe. I lay it on top of the printout
to see where the bends are, and heat the PVC with a
heat gun to get the shape that I need. I was also careful to keep the bends flat, so the handle does not curve
up and off of the table. The battery fits into a 3/4-inch
PVC coupler, with effort. I glue a short piece of
thin walled 3/4-inch PVC over the 1/2-inch PVC. I’ll need to insert little pieces of thin-walled PVC to get
it all to glue together. And then slip that into the coupler. I don’t want the power
coupler to come undone inside of the pipe, so I wrap
heat shrink tubing over it to hold it altogether. I didn’t think about how I could
have just ran all new wires until the very end, and
that would have been a much better idea. To get the ax handle shape I cut strips of EVA floor mat foam. These are the same size as the pipe, and before I glue them
on, I rough up the surface of the PVC with sandpaper. This will give the surface
a tooth that the glue can grip to. If I didn’t do this, eventually the foam could come undone from the smooth pipe. The handle is longer than my
foam, so I add a little more. The seam between the
two is where I’ll wrap the fabric around later, so it’ll be hidden. The ax handle is wider at
the top, so I add more strips of foam to thicken it. Then I cut a wide strip for each side, until the whole thing is covered. I start sanding the foam down to the shape of the handle that I want. But you could just use sandpaper and just do this by hand, but it’ll take a long time. Even my random orbit
sander was taking longer than I wanted, so I used my
new one-inch belt sander. It works really well, almost too well. I have to be careful not
to sand down the PVC, and make too big of gouges in the sides. And I still clean it up
with the random orbit sander to get it smooth. I need to make the pommel,
and hide the battery. I build up foam because the Milwaukee
battery terminal was offset, then I can wrap it with
five-millimeter craft foam. The pommel will be a little
bigger than it should be just so it can fit the battery but it’ll still look fine. I’ve got a place for the battery to live and it’s convenient that even within the game, the pommels are meant to be removeable so you can switch them out. So, it makes a really good battery cover. After the glue sets, I
sand the craft foam down so it meets the handle. And glue on the ax head. So, obviously I have
little too much wire here for the handle. That’s okay, I’ll shorten that and something else I’m gonna need to add is a switch. I’m just going use the push button switch from one of these $1 flashlights
that I get at Walmart, The switch is easy to
remove, it just unscrews and comes right apart,
and I can just solder wire to each tab on the switch. I mark an X where I want the switch to go. Then I realize I marked the
wrong spot, and mark another X. I drill out the PVC for the wire to fit, and use a Dremel to chew
out the foam to make room for the switch. And it takes a couple of
tries to get it to sit right. Then I insert the switch and the wire to the battery connection. And this time I crimp
on flat-blade terminals. I stuff the wire back inside the pipe and the battery can cram
into the PVC coupler. Good, alrighty. That’s not ideal but that’ll work. I super glue the back of
the switch down to the foam, being careful to not get
glue inside the switch. To make the pommel cap, I cut
some strips of floor mat foam to fit inside the
handle, kinda like a tab, I also use a hole saw to
make discs of floor mat foam, four layers thick. These will let me make a
rounded end for the pommel and then wrap a cylinder of
craft foam around the battery. I glue everything together, and sand the end round on a belt sander. I trace the dragon head onto
some five-millimeter craft foam that is sized to wrap around the pommel. After I cut out the
basic shape, I glue it on with contact cement,
and later I’ll carve out all the details with my Dremel. I add a little piece of foam
to the top of the ax head, so it will look like the handle
goes all the way through. And I add some more layers
of craft foam to widen the ax at the handle. Then I glue more two-millimeter foam to cover all the layers and cover the seam of
the handle on the end. Once the glue sets, I
use another grinding bit to smooth out the craft foam layer, so it can look like one piece on the ax. Now, lots of carving. I use different grinding bits to carve out details
that belong on the ax, like the spikes on the top of the head, these would hold a metal ax onto an actual wooden handle. I can cut out the paper pattern for the knot work that goes on the side, and trace the shape onto the foam, I have a drum sander bit that I can use to make the big circle, I just moved the sanding cylinder down and cut the circle into the foam. The smaller circles I
make with a grinding bit on the Dremel. I use a high speed cutting
bit to make the outline between the wood and the metal, and go back with a grinder
to smooth out the curve of the metal side. I also grind off some
of the raised glue seams on the handle. A little more careful grinding
around the top circle, and I can start cutting lines
in with an X-Acto knife. There is a lot of knot
work carving on the sides of the ax handle, I just make shallow cuts into the foam with an X-Acto knife, all of these little cuts will open up when I heat the foam with a heat gun. I do the same thing
for all of the patterns on the first ax blade, but I cut deeper, through the craft foam and
just into the white foam. First, I poked holes
through the paper pattern with a thumbtack, and then
connected the dots to get the same pattern on the ax face. I make all the marks that I can. Not all of them will light up in the end, but most will, and all the little lines will still look really good. The handle is supposed to be wood, so I make long wood grain cuts up the handle, letting
them be a little wavy, and not just a bunch of straight lines. Then I can use the heat
gun to warm up the foam, which seals the surface,
and opens up all those cuts that I had made into the foam. This is really fun to watch happen, ’cause they open up pretty quick, it looks a lot like time lapse video in real life. One thing to be careful
of is to not burn the foam by pointing the heat gun
at one spot for too long. Just keep it moving, and
everything will be fine. I mark the dragon head
shapes onto the pommel, and carve them out with a Dremel, carving out the eyes, and the nostril, and the fire on each side. Then I go back and make cuts for the teeth and the knot work along the edge. I do this to both sides of the pommel. And then hit it with a heat gun. I put a piece of tape over the switch, and sprayed the whole thing
down with a couple of layers of black PlastiDip. The PlastiDip seals the foam and gives a stronger surface, and it works like a primer for the paint. It also really doesn’t
get down into the cracks, so the blue lights are
not totally sealed up. Then I spray painted the ax head with a metallic nickel color,
and the handle is just brown. I was not exact with
where the colors meet, I’ll fix that later with
acrylic craft paints. First I use a black shoe polish
to stain the metal parts, and really fill in all
of the carved lines. I try to keep the polish from pooling, I just want an even patina
over all of the foam. I then use some brown
acrylic paints to get the wood parts painted that
are up next to the metal parts. I was not worried about
matching the brown color, the wood has lots of light and dark tones, this is just my first step. I continue to paint the whole handle, but in a artistically sloppy way, leaving lots of steaks
in darker brown colors. After that dries, I mix
an even lighter color, and do a really wet dry brush
over the whole thing again. I’m just painting the
high points on the handle, or exaggerating them on the pommel. This coat dries pretty quickly,
and I can stain the handle with brown shoe polish. This doesn’t cover up all of the colors, it mostly blends them together. I water down some black acrylic paint, and do another black wash
over the deeper cuts, wiping off the excess as I go. Then I dry brush some
bright silver on the edges of the ax, and on the sharpened blade. The ax has a wrap of material that goes around the handle, where the grip is. I cut some linen cloth into small strips, and use Mod
Podge to glue it the handle. I’m careful to cover the on/off switch, and I am extra careful
not to get the Mod Podge into the switch. I really don’t want to goop it up so it doesn’t work. It takes a couple of strips
of fabric to get a good look, and I paint wash the
fabric with a brown color, so it looks stained and weathered. Then I set the ax in
front of a fan to speed up the dry time. Now I can open the rune lines back up, and make them really glow. I’m using a wood burning kit
to carefully open the lines, and make them brighter. This is the first time
I’ve tried doing this, it got easier as I went along. I have a wood burner with
a temperature setting, so I kept it at good level where
I could melt the foam open, but not just burn it up into goop. When I’m done with the glowing lines, I spray a clear flat
sealer over the whole ax to protect the paint. (upbeat music) Most of the materials
I used for this project I got locally, and I put a
part list in the description. So, except for the smell, the wood burner worked really well for opening up all the lines so you can actually see the
runes glow which is pretty cool and the button thankfully still works. It had me scared for a minute, I thought the Mod Podge has clogged it up so I’m very happy I’ve
got myself a Leviathan ax. I didn’t have to hire out
a pair of specialist dwarfs to forge one for me. I was able to make one myself from foam because this is how Odin Makes. I wanna say thank you to all
of my Patreon subscribers, and if you want to jump in
and help support new videos, please check out my Patreon page. If you have any ideas for
something for me to make, please leave a comment below. And if you make any of these projects, you can send me a picture. So, supposedly the same dwarfs
made the same two weapons. I guess you guys are related.

Randy Schultz

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100 thoughts on “Odin Makes – Leviathan Axe from God of War 4

  1. cuong bui says:

    He didn’t go through the part about recalling the axe.

  2. RelyingSky 02 says:

    My favorite by far

  3. Arctic FN says:

    Wait… your Thor’s dad???

  4. JamesAtron Media says:

    Opening the rune lines of is the most satisfying bit and my favourite part of the video could you please make boys bow to complete the set from the game

  5. fatboi69 says:

    odin: 0:07

    kratos: real shit?

  6. Ian barber says:

    You can dip it in flex seal to get a real axe

  7. Alaaddin Özışık says:

    2 saniye bakınca aniden BOY diye bağırasım geliyor.

  8. Dr Dorf says:

    This is absolutely insane!!!! Pure talent right there!!!!

  9. lillie johnson says:

    Can I buy the axe how much money

  10. Rafael Muniz says:

    I liked your video and all… nice axe, but where's the axe recalling part? You did nothing about it. I thought this axe should be faithful to the Kratos' one. Fucking trash 0/10 realism 0/10 would buy it

  11. GamingWith Beanz says:

    You should make bumblebees hammer

  12. Diego Flores says:

    That’s adequate BOOOOOIIIII

  13. Moonzy Wolf says:

    Damn, odin let himself go.

  14. Dakota Grabner says:

    Why don’t u use a real axe handle and made the axe head from a more solid foam that’s what I did

  15. Pedro Alonso says:

    This is amazing!

  16. Ильшат Игибаев says:

    Я охирел просто)

  17. Ильшат Игибаев says:


  18. Ильшат Игибаев says:

    Аплодирую стоя))

  19. Dawid Kowalewicz says:

    dude you are great!

  20. Christopher Young says:

    Odin made this? So the dwarves lied to us

  21. probably not a person says:

    You have the perfect name as it is in norse mythology

  22. Blades and Boom says:

    Hey! I know this is a pretty old video, but maybe this will help you in future builds, they actually make an acrylic designed to take light in from the edge and diffuse it evenly across the panel surface (which would allow you to do a shorter strip of LED's around the edge like you originally wanted to) it's technically called "Microsphere acrylic" but I think the branded name is "EndLighten" acrylic by "Acrylite" It is really great stuff and can be purchased in various quantities! 🙂 alternatively you can edge light a piece of thin cell cast acrylic and engrave the designs into it to get those specific areas to glow bright! Hope this helps!

  23. LimEy 27 says:


  24. Ryatt says:

    I made Stormbreaker, but used the same lighting techniques in this video to make a cracked look for lightning.

  25. MC ab says:

    Lol I clicked on the video thinking this mf was gonna forge a real axe. Smh lmao.

  26. 0 atao says:

    good job dwarf

  27. cockie123 fighter says:

    Make please the baseballbat with a sawblade from days gone

  28. Phantom PJ says:

    Arya Stark's Catspaw Dagger

  29. Zakary DeLaura says:

    The white mod podge disappears?

  30. Zakary DeLaura says:

    Foam floor mats are toxic when u heat them up and breath it in

  31. Floss Freestyle says:

    Odin makes is so genius you sir are my master👑👑

  32. cardboard king says:

    16:58 that is true i read up on it

  33. Suprobolis says:

    Thought Kratos didn’t use weapons made from the gods

  34. lewerworschtweg mit senf ! says:

    How Big is the axe

  35. Ember Fox says:

    BLADES OF CHAOS !!!!!!

  36. Tanner Kelsey says:

    Pretty sure this the dude who narrates "how it's made"

  37. Aarti More says:

    Make the hauk i bow and arrow

  38. Benny Blanco says:

    Awesome build and attention to detail.


    Now the axe is made by Thor father

  40. Nayops 18 says:

    Bad ass❗️😎

  41. Cyrill Khosy says:

    danggg that is awesome ; )

  42. Benjamin Sykes says:

    You are awesome.

  43. Johnny k says:

    Can you please make the sword from devil May cry

  44. Thomas Beckham says:

    Can i have it please?

  45. berserk wolf says:

    Wow so badass

  46. Jocelyn Wilson says:

    My hero academia Bakugo

  47. ender slot says:

    Odin makes Leviathan Axe

    Kratos: hrmmmm
    Atreus: what the heck?
    Head: i dont believe it
    Freya: Thats nah… ?
    Sindri & Brook: Are we a joke to you?

  48. 25052647 says:


  49. Glaz Canon says:

    Wish you did the leviathan axe fully upgraded but I still like the video.

  50. Seth Gecko says:

    So I'm going to supercon this year as kratos and was wonder what percent I should increase the axe print out to?

  51. Ильшат Игибаев says:

    Гномы в удивлении)

  52. Lance Petroski says:

    You should do the Mjölnir from God of War

  53. TheBadNewsBears says:

    This guys a genius

  54. Legokidz123 Legoz says:

    Sindri mikes the leviathan axe stupid

  55. Kurd Games 2 says:

    i can buy

  56. Frei says:

    Kratos wants to know your location

  57. Alvaro Barrera says:

    Make improvements to it.

  58. TheAlmightyPug101 says:

    Me: Holy cow can I have it?
    Odin: no BOI
    Me: 🙁

  59. Nat Battiato says:

    This is amazing!!! Suggestion next make: The Master Sword, from The Legend of Zelda

  60. Your_Worst_Nightmare says:

    Make mercenary helmet and spear of Leonidas from Assassin's Creed Odyssey

  61. Aryan Gholizadeh says:

    Hey he killed 2 of your grandsons and you are making his axe?

  62. Johny Moore says:

    Can i buy one? 😂

  63. Ibrahim Waheed says:

    Bold of you to make this since Kratos is going to battle you with his leviathan at the end of the series

  64. Stiff Boynana says:

    With money, I could do this as well.

  65. Astromooncake dorito8513 says:

    Good job Odin on the Leviathan axe .

  66. reybin says:

    C mamo el brok

  67. LazerBull says:

    *The Allfather Makes

  68. Owen Davis says:

    Make the level 6 upgraded leviathan axe!

  69. Cor Breedt says:

    make the holy grenade

  70. Alex Mazurek says:

    Anyone know what this specific packing material is called?

  71. Twister says:

    I feel clickbaited – was expecting a functional weapon based on the title "MAKING LEVIATHAN AXE" instead of a disappointing movie prop.

  72. Old Bird Gaming says:

    What about real monitor ( one based on real Norse mythology)

  73. Ahmad_ AK 7 says:


  74. Dio Duhf says:

    this is so complicated

    but only odin "thor's dad" can make this easy

  75. Kemr Bloodfang says:

    Corrupted Ashbringer from WoW Classic? 🙂

  76. Harini Swaroop says:

    Make levithan axe final upgrade

  77. Dio Brando says:

    Instructions unclear ended up with some annoying boi

  78. AS4 production says:

    Make eye of aggamoto from doctor strange

  79. batmanfanatic83 says:

    Saba the white tiger sword from power rangers

  80. Seth Gecko says:

    Gawd he made creating the axe look so damn easy, its not…

  81. Greyson Evans says:

    The white foam you used for the blade is called Ethafoam

  82. Jothi Jothi says:

    Pls do blades of Athena from God of war

  83. Arthur Delavy says:

    this is shit

  84. Ryan Dinto says:

    Your name is clickbait 😄

  85. Luis Fabian Urbina Espinoza says:

    Cestus of the nemea Godoy of war

  86. Elvie Goloya says:

    Make attack on titan blade

  87. super duper enemy says:

    It's a part of storm breaker

  88. savion huggins says:

    Odin 😂😂😂 his name

  89. Rouhullah Sharifi says:


  90. Jayce Cardoza says:

    Thor: Who made your Axe?
    Kratos: It was Odin
    Thor: DA F*CK?

  91. Simoniums Tv says:

    Actually odin created the leviathan axe based on prologue

  92. Gultair Dogs says:

    This is awesome! Great work!

  93. PHILL SHIVELY says:

    Wait a Second you have 1 To Many eyes to be Odin I'm Skeptical

  94. PHILL SHIVELY says:

    Aw Man I Thought you were going to create an actual Replica using Steel and Wood 🙁

  95. Monte Wolf says:

    He looks like Brok but skin color.

  96. Kevin Deleon says:


  97. Steven Carl Fernandez says:

    Do the fully upgraded version

  98. Michael Wilson says:

    Can you please make me a voodoo doll

  99. Palli Playz says:

    Kratos:Observe boi you will one day make your own weapons to defend yourself
    Atreus:His name is Odin
    Kratos:Gather your things boi we have a god to kill

  100. jeremiahff329 says:

    YouTube why didn’t you recommend me this! Subscribed btw

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